Not a stitch on him.
I pause, then edge past. There is no one else around. He is the only person I can ask for directions.
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I am beginning to realise that all over this country, people speak their own dialect, a dialect that is sometimes so different from standard High German that it is effectively a different language. Here they speak a type of Plattdeutsch , hence, nee not nein. Most, of course, actually do speak High German too, but perhaps not at home. It makes the linguistic landscape far more fascinating than I had ever suspected. I have a long-held theory about travel: that the best experiences come when you get lost.
I find a soft, narrow path that winds delicately through the trees for a mile to reach a locked gate. I stop. At that moment, something swoops over my head.
I glimpse huge broad wings as the bird turns, jinking around the tree trunks and then perching. A goshawk. Ten minutes later, I have recovered the true path and emerge from the woods by a wheat field in which a marsh harrier is hunting. Two deer pop their heads up from the wheat and come leaping towards me. It may be, at first glance, a flattish, unremarkable arable island, but it conceals all manner of wonderful things. For my fourth day, I leave the bike behind and walk from the coastal village of Lohme into Jasmund national park. I slither down to the beach — a remarkable place that seems to be made entirely from flints and white feathers.
The flints get larger: some bigger than an average swan. I find a path eventually and scramble up to the visitor centre. The walk back along the top of the cliffs feels epic and magical: nothing beats an ancient beech forest. Back on my bike the next day, I head towards the north coast, a quieter area with empty beaches. I am never very far from refreshments of some sort, though. Still attracted are the amber-hunters, who scour the shoreline for the fossilised resin that often turns up on beaches after storms.
Along that long, sparsely inhabited northern coast I lean my bike on a beech tree and clamber down to an empty beach, but I have no luck with my prospecting. Instead, I wander through the cliff-top woods and fill my pockets with delicious wild plums. My final day starts with a minute ferry ride to the island of Hiddensee, a km long pencil-thin, island.
On a sun-soaked day it looks wonderful: thatched cottages everywhere, and transport by horse or bike. Project Gutenberg needs your donation! More Info.
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